Shakespeare and Sachsenhausen

One More Time...

2009-08-01T06:47:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England –Four weeks ago, I left Atlanta, unsure of what I would find across the ocean. It had been more than a decade since I had visited the United Kingdom, and, as we all know, much has changed.

Politically, during my last visit, Tony Blair’s Labour Party enjoyed incredible popularity; today, depending on the sample, Labour polls at around 17%. The Conservatives, who during my first visit were in hiding, are reenergized and almost certain to take control whenever Gordon Brown calls an election, which he must do by June 2010. Support for the monarchy remains strong.

Culturally, this country is gearing up to host the 2012 Olympics. London is still one of the most vibrant and influential capitals anywhere in the world, and the magic of Westminster and Buckingham Palace have not changed. Islamic fundamentalists attacked little more than four years ago, a haunting reminder of terror in a country that knew it for so long from the likes of the IRA. After all, two people I interviewed were nearly killed by an IRA mortar attack in 1991.

The food has improved, at least from what I remember. Oxford is filled with terrific ethnic restaurants – I had excellent Thai food for lunch today – but the local fare of fish and chips is still deservedly a staple. Breakfast could use some work, though.

I have learned a great deal over the past few weeks. I have met some of this country’s most dynamic leaders and learned something from each. I will be hard-pressed to forget tea with Peter Carrington, getting lost in the House of Lords with Douglas Hurd, or watching Tom King’s head snap around toward the window with every clap of thunder.

I’ve visited Canterbury Cathedral, seen the White Cliffs of Dover, and seen one of Shakespeare’s plays in Stratford. I’ve dined on fish and chips, Thai food, and McDonald’s. I’ve driven all over London – saw Buckingham Palace the first day – and have flown (or will have flown) in and out of eight different airports (Atlanta, Berlin, Cincinnati, Dusseldorf, Gatwick, Heathrow, Munich, and Prague.)

It has been a very busy, very rewarding visit across the Atlantic. I’m glad I came. Please be sure to see the acknowledgements section below, and thank you for reading.

From the United Kingdom, good day.

Acknowledgements

2009-08-01T06:46:00.000+01:00

My visit to Europe over the last four weeks has been extraordinary. My trip has been extraordinary thanks to the efforts of a number of people. An attempt at a list follows.

The administration of the University of Alabama has been incredibly supportive of my work here in the United Kingdom, and the faculty has followed suit. Dr. Jacqueline Morgan, the associate dean of the Honors College, and Wellon Bridgers, the coordinator of the University Fellows Experience, provided encouragement in the run-up to my departure for Europe, as did Drs. Doug Gibler, Jennifer Greer, Howard Jones, and Chris Roberts.

I had the remarkable opportunity to interview eight of Britain’s top leaders during my stay. Each of those leaders – Peter Carrington, Michael Howard, Geoffrey Howe, Douglas Hurd, Tom King, Nigel Lawson, David Owen, and Malcolm Rifkind – took a chance on me by granting an interview to an unknown American. I hope I gave them the fair hearing that I promised.

Once the leaders agreed to talk with me, I worked with their wonderful staff members to nail down the logistics. The interviews could not have happened without the assistance and toleration of Diana Atkinson, Pauline Glock, Lorraine Pitcher, Ola Rathbone, Maggie Smart, Christine Shaylor, and Helen Smeed.

Since I was terrified of what was to happen with these interviews, I sought counsel from a Hall of Fame collection of journalists. David Greising of the Chicago Tribune provided exceptional advice, as did Dana Priest of the Washington Post. Frank Sesno, formerly of CNN and now with the George Washington University, and Jim Lehrer of PBS offered their guidance as best they could, as did Christi Parsons of the Los Angeles Times. Brian Kelly and Mortimer Zuckerman of US News & World Report both took the time to tell me I had a solid story on my hands, which provided a lot of motivation to keep going when things appeared more complicated than ever. David Frum of the American Enterprise Institute and Michael O’Hanlon of the Brookings Institution offered their incredible wealth of knowledge from the outset of this project. I am grateful to all of them.

In London and in Oxford, I was fortunate enough to have a terrific team in the form of Liz Hester, my photographer, and Hillary Moore, my editorial assistant. They have endured long hours, a flash flood in London, and my endless rambles to help me tell a story. Liz took all of the spectacular images you have seen on this blog, and Hillary helped to jog my memory as I wrote the story you will see in the coming weeks. Morgan Henry stood in for Liz one day, and she recorded some great moments with David Owen.

Meredith helped me to stay sane before and during my trip. Her efforts – and her willingness to give up her boyfriend for four weeks in the summer so he could chase a dream – have been nothing short of terrific. Not that I expected anything different from her; she has always proven to be amazing.

My parents and sister provided a terrific amount of support for this trip. We’ve had plenty of web cam and Facebook chats over the past few weeks, but I am ready to see them again in-person.

Thank you for reading, for making this blog worth some time every day. I know who some of you are, but to the others, thanks for joining me. It’s been a good ride.

Nearing the Finish

2009-07-30T21:29:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England -- Tomorrow is my last full day in the United Kingdom, and I have spent much of today working on my history essay. It is nearing completion, and I'll be doing the final edits (as I am permitted to do) as I return to the United States.

Right now, I am preparing to go finish off the rest of the communal hall ice cream. Some of us went in together to buy a few containers of what the Brits call ice cream and chocolate sauce (Blue Bell and Hershey's have nothing to worry about.) Since the group dines with the provost tomorrow - and dessert will reportedly be good - we're planning to clog our arteries tonight.

More - my final post from Europe - tomorrow.

Until Tomorrow...

2009-07-29T22:02:00.003+01:00

OXFORD, England -- I spent much of my day working on my history final, so there isn't much to say except that the paper is nearing completion and I ate a lot today because British food doesn't seem to fill me up, probably because I have yet to try the baked beans at breakfast. Just thought I'd share.

Gordon and Me

2009-07-28T20:06:00.002+01:00

LONDON – To fully understand how the British prime minister and, indeed, the entire Labour Party has blacklisted me, you need a basic primer on UK politics. For some of you, this might be patronizing.

The UK is a parliamentary democracy. Voters elect Members of Parliament (MPs), who, in turn, elect the prime minister. The prime minister then names his cabinet ministers, who are all members of the House of Commons or the House of Lords. Because of this, and how the British system mainly focuses on cabinet members and not random MPs, members of the cabinet, for the most part, owe their political livelihood to the prime minister. The prime minister and the cabinet collectively form “Her Majesty’s Government.”

The prime minister sets the tone of the government from 10 Downing, and the cabinet then implements policy in the various departments. While members of the cabinet are more independent in the UK than they are in the United States, their movements and actions are still very tightly-controlled by the prime minister’s office.

This includes media interviews.

As many of you know, I have been over here working on a special series of interviews with Britain’s most prominent leaders, including five foreign secretaries. Out of the eight people I have interviewed, I have talked with seven Conservatives and one independent. I have yet to talk to a current member of the Labour Party.

That is not by choice. I sent out more than a dozen interview requests to members of the Labour Party. All declined or ignored the request.

A few of the Conservatives asked if I was planning to talk with Labour. When I explained that I had tried, one commented that 10 Downing had probably issued instructions telling cabinet ministers not to cooperate with my story.

I thought that was melodramatic and the speaker was, perhaps, senile. I doubted the prime minister’s office was going to, quite frankly, waste time conspiring against a teenager. And, thanks to my own ignorance, I didn’t realize the extent of involvement from the PM’s office on media decisions for others.

In the US, leaders and their staffs tend to make media decisions independent of others. Sure, they might listen to advice, but only rarely does, say, the White House intervene and tell the secretary of state not to talk.

I learned of my ignorance while reading a biography of Tony Blair, and I came to realize the extent of the influence of 10 Downing on media matters.

After consulting with some others actively involved in British politics and media, I came to the novel conclusion that instructions on my requests came from the highest levels.

I don’t think Gordon Brown, the prime minister, sat at his desk and cooked up a big scheme against me himself. But based on how Labour has reacted (or not reacted, I suppose), with its coordinated answer of “no” (I am not kidding when I say NO ONE agreed to talk, despite almost everyone else saying yes), it’s a safe bet that direction came from someone somewhere. It’s just ironic, to say the least, that so many said yes while the only people who declined were those from Labour (with the exception of two Conservatives.)

And since the buck stops with the prime minister on everything that emanates from 10 Downing, he gets the “credit” in this case.

I don’t know why Labour refused to talk; it seemed to me to be in their best interest so I wouldn’t be writing a piece solely about Conservatives.

But they made their choice. The story is going to print. Sorry, Prime Minister.

More Tomorrow...

2009-07-26T20:57:00.000+01:00

OXFORD, England -- Back in Oxford after a safe trip from Prague. Not much to write about today considering it was a travel day, so hopefully I'll have something more interesting for you tomorrow.

Forgetfulness

2009-07-25T20:52:00.002+01:00

Since I completely forgot to post the photos I promised below, here's a link:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2023795&id=1121340048&l=fe8ff6b8f9

Behind the Iron Curtain

2009-07-25T19:46:00.002+01:00

PRAGUE, Czech Republic -- As I did some research on Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, before my visit, I came across a sentence summing up the city's history very well:

"The well-worn cobblestones have felt the hooves of king's horses, the jackboots of Hitler's armies, the heaving wheels of Soviet tanks, and the shuffling feet of students in passive revolt."

I have been intrigued by Prague for some time, so I jumped at the opportunity to spend the weekend in the Czech capital.

I flew out of London's Gatwick airport on Friday after massive delays triggered by a combination of an emergency landing (closing Gatwick's single runway) and a thunderstorm. I arrived in Prague at 10:30pm, local time, which is an hour ahead of London and six ahead of Atlanta.

I had arranged for a car to meet me at the airport; stories of Prague's taxi drivers are things of legend. My driver was originally from the United States before moving to the Czech Republic a decade ago when he married a local. We traded travel stories - he taught English in Chiang Mai, Thailand, a city I spent a few nights in last year - and he gave me some valuable tips to make the most of my time here.

I arrived at my hotel, which is actually an apartment complex owned by Marriott. Normally, college students don't stay in Marriotts. But Travelocity, which is normally cheap to begin with, had a sale several months ago on this particular property, and when I realized it was only a few dollars more to stay here than a bed-and-breakfast, I jumped at the chance. I'm glad I did.

When I finally made it up to my room, I found a one-bedroom penthouse apartment, complete with kitchen. The best part, though, is the view. I am on the corner of the building, and I have a balcony that runs along both sides of the apartment. The balcony provides a stunning view of Prague Castle, which is absolutely terrific.

I was up relatively early this morning, so I did some reading out on the balcony before heading out. I did what I normally do: I started walking in the direction of the main sights, with no real idea of where I would end up.

I crossed the Vltava River, which divides this city, and headed north towards Prague Castle. I stopped by the Church of St. Nicholas and had a traditional Czech meal (onion/cheese soup, dumplings, and a sirloin-like meat in a cream sauce) for lunch. I also did some souvenir shopping in the area before continuing to wander.

I crossed back over the Vltava and admired Prague's most famous bridge, Charles Bridge, from afar. But I eventually wandered over there, too, and discovered the opportunity to climb the bridge's tower. I have no idea why more people don't take advantage of this, but for about $2.50 US, I had a terrific view of Prague without having to hike all the way up the mountain to the castle.

Once I finally came back down - I spent an awful lot of time up there having only paid $2.50...I think I got a pretty good deal - I wandered over to the National Opera, a beautiful old building in the midst of a few more modern facilities.

With the threat of rain looming, I returned to my apartment, where I wrote and talked to Atlanta for a while. I ventured out once more for dinner, and since I'm a tourist and I'm allowed to do this, I went to Hard Rock Cafe, which opened here five months ago. American ideas are indeed spreading behind the former Iron Curtain.

I dropped by Old Sqaure on my way back to the hotel, and I'm planning to spend the remainder of my evening watching the sunset before continuing on the book I bought at Gatwick during my delay, which is a history of Tony Blair's second and third terms at 10 Downing.

Prague is my favorite city in Europe and one of my favorites in the world. Most everything is economical (the Czech Republic has not joined the Euro), and the people are spectacularly friendly. The city is gorgeous (a link to photos is below) and historic. I can see why Hitler, Stalin, and countless other dictators/leaders wanted this place, often called the Golden City.

This is my first visit in the former Soviet Union (besides my time last week in East Berlin), and the Czech Republic is very different than the rest of Europe. While some American innovations have arrived (McDonald's, KFC, Hard Rock, etc.), other aspects of global/European life have not. Cars are not as new here as they are in other cities, and, from the advertisements I've seen, there are some very shady areas. In London, Berlin, Vienna, and other cities, you don't see those places advertised, even though everyone knows that they exist somewhere.

I am delighted I came to Prague; the visit has been a highlight of my European trip. I head back to London tomorrow on a flight that departs shortly after noon, meaning I should be back in Oxford by early evening. But in one week, I'll be back in Atlanta. Time flies.

From the Former Soviet Union

2009-07-24T22:45:00.000+01:00

PRAGUE, Czech Republic -- Thanks to some flight delays at London-Gatwick, I am much later getting into Prague than expected. That being said, this appears to be a gorgeous city from my drive through it, and I can see Prague Castle from my room, which, by the way, is amazing.

More tomorrow after I explore the city that has seen a whole lot over the last 1200 years or so.

A Foreign Secretary's Diagnosis

2009-07-24T09:57:00.004+01:00

OXFORD, England -- Since I decided to spare you all a long and detailed post yesterday, I'm making up for it today.

Yesterday, following class here in Oxford, I headed into London for the final interview of my series. I sat down with Lord David Owen, who served as Foreign Secretary in a Labour government (1977 - 1979.) We met at his office, with a sweeping view of Hyde Park, in the Mayfair district of London. Nice real estate, indeed.

We chatted for nearly an hour about the world, and he had some very atypical insights. Owen trained as a neurologist and views the world through a very different lens than your typical politician. During the course of our interview, he diagnosed George W. Bush, the 43rd president of the United States, with adult attention deficit disorder. He went through the diagnostic criteria as we talked, and when he made his pronouncement, it took a lot of self-control to avoid laughing.

He told a variety of stories from his years as Foreign Secretary and as a mediator in the Balkans with Richard Holbrooke and Cyrus Vance. Very interesting man, indeed.

Now all I have to do is write the article and find an outlet. Both are easier said than done.

This afternoon, I'm heading to London's Gatwick airport and then flying to Prague. I'll be arriving in Prague around 9:30pm local time, but I'm planning to try to post from the Czech capital.

Busy Day, Small Blog

2009-07-23T23:44:00.000+01:00

OXFORD, England -- I have just concluded an incredibly busy day here in Britain, and since I am exhausted and leaving for the Czech Republic tomorrow afternoon, I am putting off this post until the morning.

My apologies to those who were waiting with baited breath.

Another Quiet Day

2009-07-22T22:07:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England - I spent another quiet day in Oxford, working on essays and my thesis for the department of political science. I also spent some time preparing for the final interview, which will take place tomorrow in London with Lord David Owen, who served as foreign secretary in the late 1970s.

I had a fascinating meeting yesterday with Daniel Franklin, the executive editor of The Economist. We had a long discussion about my article, and he paid the idea a number of compliments. It won't work for them because of the article's style, but we went through a number of contacts and I'm following up on them. A very productive meeting, indeed.

Off to bed. Long day ahead tomorrow.

Patience is a Virtue

2009-07-21T20:34:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England - So, I've had a habit of writing on this every single day. But, after a very busy day and ample academic work, I'm exhausted.

So you'll just have to wait until tomorrow to hear of my scintillating adventures. Besides, it's not as if you are paying for this (and considering the New York Times doesn't charge for content, I doubt I could get away with it.)

And all of that assumes that people read this. Until tomorrow, have a good day.

Quiet Day in Oxford

2009-07-20T21:20:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England -- Today was a remarkably quiet day in Oxford as I caught up on rest and work from having been in Berlin over the weekend. I read in a park for a little while and dropped in on one of the charity stores here in town. I picked up a copy - from 1887 - of Milton's Paradise Lost for 2 pounds. So, a very relaxing day.

Tomorrow will be busier as I head into London for a meeting, but not an interview. The final interview comes on Thursday when I sit down with Lord David Owen, who served as foreign secretary from 1977 to 1979.

Three Days, Four Airports

2009-07-19T16:32:00.003+01:00

DUSSELDORF, Germany - Since I left the United Kingdom on Friday, I've been through four airports (London-Heathrow, Munich, Berlin-Tegel, and Dusseldorf.) In about an hour, I'll leave this airport in the extreme west of Germany to return to the first location on that list.

It has been a very brief visit to Germany, but I've learned a great deal about this country and its people. I often write about Europeans and their political policies, but it always helps to have additional depth from having visited the country.

Did I learn anything earth-shattering? Nope.

Did I pick up a few tidbits about the cultural norms of this G-8 nation? Absolutely.

Once I land at Heathrow tonight, I'll grab my bag and head for the bus, which will take me back to Oxford. After that, it's finishing the reading for tomorrow and off to bed.

Auf Wiedersehen.

Busy in Berlin

2009-07-18T19:52:00.001+01:00

BERLIN – I’ve enjoyed a very busy day in this most paradoxical of cities.

I woke up relatively early and headed out, determined to beat at least some of the crowds. I was, for the most part, successful.

As I walked to the district that people care about, I visited the Diplomatic Quarter. My hotel is all of a block from the area, and it was interesting to see the various embassies as I headed toward Mitte, the government quarter. Most of you will know that I was a nerd from a young age, so it won’t surprise you that when I was little, I had a book of flags from around the world. That knowledge served me well more than a decade later as I spotted random embassies (like Argentina and South Africa).

I paused for a few minutes at the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, not far from some of Berlin’s most prominent sites. See the pictures at the link below, but it is a very unusual memorial. It is, however, quite sobering, and it was a good way to begin my day exploring modern Germany.

From the memorial, I headed to Brandenburg Gate, perhaps the most enduring symbol of Berlin. This is the site of numerous presidential addresses – the most famous being those of Kennedy and Reagan – and it is bordered by the American Embassy. It is large and imposing, and I ended up staying longer than I intended as I sat on a bench and ate a soft pretzel from one of the street vendors here in carb-happy Germany.

I then headed to the Reichstag, which is the German parliament. Since the German parliament moved from Bonn to Berlin in 1999, it has resided in this beautiful building topped by a glass dome. The glass dome, to me, is a fine example of modern Berlin, mixing old (the building itself) with the new and chic.

I had lunch on the banks of the Rhine River, sipping a local favorite of tomato cream soup while I admired the Reichstag building for even longer.

After finishing lunch on this very windy, blustery day, I walked to Checkpoint Charlie. En route, I spotted some spectacular churches and couldn’t resist dropping by for a look. Checkpoint Charlie, the most famous of the crossings between East and West Berlin, was of interest, but it wasn’t particularly heart-stopping. Twenty years ago, it was an important, stark reminder of the Cold War. Today, it’s overrun with tourists and vendors selling fake Soviet army hats.

Before heading back to my hotel to escape the elements, I visited the remaining sections of the Berlin Wall, which are, coincidentally, across the street from modern Germany’s finance ministry. Behind the Wall, I stumbled across the former headquarters of the SS and the Gestapo.

I arrived back at the hotel and talked with my family and Meredith for a while (Gmail voice chat is a wonderful thing.) Then, I went American and went to Hard Rock. I usually drop in on Hard Rock whenever I travel because I’m still a tourist, and I want the shirt. This time, though, I wanted the shirt and some food from the United States. I wasn’t disappointed.

After dinner, I came back to the hotel, and ever since, I’ve been working on my article about the interviews. I think it will be well-received once it is done.

This has been my first visit to Germany, and it was quite successful, I think. Germany is a remarkable country, and Berlin, in particular, is interesting and, in many respects, ironic. The Germans are trying to combine their past with the future (they are flatly skipping the present), which makes for some interesting architecture. Berlin reminds me of Shanghai in that sense. I have been impressed with Germany’s unwillingness to forget its own tragic history, and that has improved my respect for this country.

Tomorrow, I’m relaxing in Berlin for much of the day before a late-afternoon flight to Dusseldorf, and then it’s back to London, and, from there, Oxford.

Photos from Germany: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2023295&id=1121340048&l=5e3f3802fe

Live from Germany

2009-07-17T19:50:00.002+01:00

BERLIN - A few hours ago, I was on a plane with a bunch of angry Germans. That was quite a sight.

I touched down in Munich at exactly 2pm, and in a remarkable example of German efficiency, I was off the plane and in the terminal by 2:06pm. I enjoyed a spectacular mozzarella and tomato panini in the airport. Life was good. Life was punctual.

Then I boarded the plane to Berlin.

We pushed back nearly a half-hour late. As soon as we roared down the runway, the captain got on and said that there was a squall line extending through Germany, and he was going to try to circumnavigate the storm. Fair enough.

Then he said we were aiming toward Prague.

Then we turned north again.

We tried to approach from the east. No good.

From the west. No good.

Then he got on and told us that if we couldn't land within 15 minutes in Berlin, we'd be diverted to Hanover. Ever heard a bunch of Germans curse collectively? It's kind of cool. The guy in front of me banged his fist on the armrest.

With two minutes to go on our ticking fuel clock, we got clearance to land in Berlin, and hence began the most terrifying landing in the history of Germany.

Forget a slow, gradual descent. We shot out of the sky at a rate of speed they probably tell you to avoid in pilot school, but no one cared. We didn't quite do a corkscrew landing as they do in Baghdad, but we did the European capital version of it.

After circling Germany for two hours and finally landing, I made it to my beautiful hotel. I had dinner at a local Italian restaurant after I declined the opportunity to buy a burger from the hotel for 17 Euro. Then I came back to the hotel, where I am now, and took a nice, long shower, enjoying every minute of consistent hot water, and, more importantly, water pressure. Oxford is wonderful, but the shower could use some work.

I'm revising tomorrow's agenda because of the threat of more severe weather here. I had initially planned to visit the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, about an hour north of the city, but I'd rather not be wandering rural Germany when bad weather pops up. So, in light of that, I'll be sticking around the city, taking in more of the urban areas than I had initially planned. I'll probably drop in a museum or two, take full advantage of the view from the dome of the Reichstag, and sleep in later than I had planned. Should be a good day...with good food, too.

Little Boy's Dream

2009-07-17T09:53:00.003+01:00

LONDON - Heathrow Airport is a dream for airplane lovers, which essentially means that it is a dream for every guy, whether they want to admit it or not.

I'm still fascinated by the thought of flight and all of the gadgetry that goes into making it happen. And if you want to see a lot of gadgetry, you should visit Heathrow, which is Europe's busiest, as well as the busiest for international traffic.

There are big airplanes here. Like really, really big airplanes.

Driving up to the airport, I saw about a dozen sleek 747s, bound for every corner of the world. The new pride of the skies, Airbus' A380, holds forth here. Every airline you can imagine is here, from the staple, British Airways, to Thai to Qantas to Emirates to my airline of choice today, Lufthansa.

Nerd post/rant complete.

Now I am just sitting here waiting for my plane to start boarding, and then it's off to Munich. I have a brief stopover in Munich before heading on to Berlin. Assuming planes run on time, I'll be in the German capital well before nightfall.

Finding Shakespeare

2009-07-16T22:08:00.003+01:00

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON, England - Had William Shakespeare not been born in this town, it might not even make a map of Britain. But since Britain's most prominent writer hailed from this small hamlet, I made the trek.

Upon arrival in Stratford, we met with Dr. Kate McLuskie, the director of the Shakespeare Institute of the University of Birmingham (England, not Alabama.) One of the world's most prominent experts on Shakespeare, we were gracious for her time in welcoming us to Stratford.

I enjoyed lunch at the Garrick Inn, which goes way back (as into the 14th century.) The food was terrific, so I ended up having dinner there, too.

But before dinner, I had the privilege of attending the Royal Shakespeare Company's production of Julius Caesar. It was incredibly long - about three hours - but masterfully performed. I admit that I was a bit drowsy for the first 45 minutes or so...but I perked up, as did the rest of the audience, when people started dying.

I sound like a horrible person.

Tomorrow, it is off to Berlin, Germany, via Munich. When I arrive in Berlin, I plan to just relax for the evening at the hotel, which is in the heart of the city. With any luck, I'll even be writing from the German capital.

Catching Up

2009-07-15T20:12:00.000+01:00

OXFORD, England - This will be an exceptionally short post, mainly because I haven't done much of anything all day except relax after class.

Tomorrow, I head to Shakespeare's hometown, Stratford-upon-Avon, to see a performance of Julius Caesar. I'll return to Oxford tomorrow night to pack for Friday's visit to Germany. Let the fun continue.

A Long Day at Westminster

2009-07-14T23:02:00.001+01:00

LONDON – The British government really knows how to treat a guest. Earlier today, I had the pleasure and privilege of attending “Question Time” in the House of Commons. Every day, a different cabinet minister takes questions from members of Parliament; today, the sitting Chancellor of the Exchequer, Alistair Darling, took his turn.

Thanks to some within the British parliament, I arrived shortly before the session began, met the Speaker, and then proceeded into the chamber. The Chancellor held forth for about an hour, and my previous opinion is unchanged: Britain’s parliament is much more exciting than the United States Congress.

I suppose part of the good from the experience came from not having to stand in a ridiculously long line to gain entrance.

After I attended Questions, I wandered up to a meeting of the Joint Committee on Human Rights. The meeting concluded shortly after I arrived, but I did have a few moments to talk with one of the witnesses, Lord Mark Malloch-Brown, the former #2 at the UN who is now a minister in the Foreign Office here. He’s tall.

Like really tall.

From there, I headed to Portcullis House for the first interview of the day. Michael Howard, a former home secretary and Leader of the Opposition, and I talked for a while in his office overlooking Westminster. He has, by far, the best view I’ve seen at the Parliamentary Estate. The view was the highlight. I found Howard difficult to get along with, and he was everything that Lord Carrington was not on Monday. Howard was aloof, rather prickly, and generally unfriendly, which was distinctively different from everyone else. With all of the others, even if they weren’t particularly warm at the outset, they thawed as we talked. With Howard, I felt like we took a step backwards.

Nigel Lawson, who was the Chancellor of the Exchequer under Margaret Thatcher, was a delight to talk with and absolutely brilliant. He offered some remarkable insights on Afghanistan and on the recent economic recovery plans in the United States, and I think you’ll find his comments to be very interesting when the article goes to print. I know I learned a lot during the course of our discussion.

Now it’s off to do some reading tomorrow and to take a deep breath since I don’t have any interviews until July 23. Whew!

But, before I go, the photo link, including photos from yesterday's remarkable session with Peter Carrington: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2022563&id=1121340048&l=e5efcfc0bc

Tea with Lord Carrington

2009-07-13T19:14:00.004+01:00

LONDON – Simply put, Peter Carrington is an icon. And I just finished tea with him at his London home; he came in to the capital from his country estate for a meeting with me, to be followed by a session with the sitting prime minister.

And what a meeting we had.

When I arrived at his home in a particularly wealthy – and very lovely – section of London, a security guard got out of a gleaming new Jaguar to greet us. He walked us to the garden, and there he was: Peter Carrington, one of the most iconic British politicians of the last century. He entered the House of Lords in 1940, took a leave of absence to fight for his country at Normandy, and served in multiples roles, including defense secretary, foreign secretary, and secretary-general of NATO. During his career, he has counted Winston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher, and Ronald Reagan as his friends while meeting Saddam Hussein twice and serving as the commencement speaker for Harvard.

Carrington invited us into his living room, dotted with photographs of an extraordinary career (you know, the usual photos on the fireplace – like the one of him presiding over NATO), but only after insisting that we accept tea or coffee. As we waited, we talked about the University of Alabama and its progress over the years. He wanted to know about the University’s rise as an academic leader, and he was very curious about the work of our president, Robert Witt. As I looked around the room, I noticed some pillows on the couch. One read simply that, “I strive to be the person my dog thinks I am,” or something to that effect. Another talked about how daschunds are some of man’s best friends.

The tea arrived, and we began. We had a wonderful session, and the details of what he said will come out in the final article. But, in short, Peter Carrington thinks that the French need to grow up and NATO needs to refine its mission since the Soviet Union has been gone for nearly two decades. He also thinks that the United States gets a bad rap despite doing ample good around the world.

We chatted for an hour, with Lord Carrington telling stories along the way. He told stories of his work with John McCain’s father (yes, he has been involved at the highest levels for that long) and of his relationship with Ronald Reagan. In my judgment, he never told a story to promote his own distinguished career; rather, he relived them in a genuine effort to inform and entertain his visitors.

We finally showed ourselves out, knowing that his secretary had mentioned a few weeks ago that he had an appointment at Downing Street.

At 90, Peter Carrington is spry, sharp, and witty. I have never met anyone like him in all of my years of politics. I’ll be posting pictures later tonight once I get them from Liz, and I’ll add a link on this page.

Off to London tomorrow for two more interviews and a stop in the House of Commons as a guest of the British government…should be interesting to say the least.

Calm Day, Busy Week

2009-07-12T19:37:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England – I spent much of today relaxing in preparation for a very busy week, which will culminate in my arrival in Germany on Friday.

I had lunch at a local Japanese restaurant; it was not an American-style Japanese place, so the prices were reasonable and the fare, you know, Japanese. After lunch, I wandered over to Christ Church College. I had visited previously for a brief time, but I took a more expansive walkthrough today, including the Great Hall, which many of you have visited in your local movie theatre as you watched the Harry Potter movies.

After my visit to Christ Church, I dropped by a grocery store and picked up some Coke for my refrigerator before coming back here to spend much of the rest of the day writing, reading, and preparing for interviews, which resume tomorrow.

It will be a busy week, indeed. Tomorrow, Peter Carrington takes his turn wearing the microphone. Two more prominent British leaders will follow on Tuesday: Michael Howard, a former home secretary and Leader of the Opposition, and Nigel Lawson, a former Chancellor of the Exchequer.

Wednesday should be a relatively quiet day before I head off to Stratford-upon-Avon, the birthplace of Shakespeare, on Thursday. I’ll be seeing a play (Julius Caesar) before returning to Oxford on Thursday evening.

On Friday morning, since classes are canceled, I’ll be getting an early start to London’s Heathrow Airport. From London, it’s on to Berlin, via Munich, and my inaugural visit to Germany. I’ll get back to Oxford on Sunday evening, but I expect to be posting photos and written content from the German capital throughout my brief stay.

So, a busy and exciting week is coming up. I’ve got less than three weeks left here, so I might as well make every second count.

A Cathedral, a Castle, and White Cliffs

2009-07-11T21:16:00.000+01:00

SURREY, England – I write this en route to Oxford, returning from a brief visit to England’s southeast coast, with stops in Canterbury and Dover.

I woke up this morning in Canterbury, which is truly a lovely city. I paid a visit to the Canterbury Cathedral, and it was nothing short of awe-inspiring. The Cathedral, as you might know, was the setting for Thomas Becket’s murder and ascension as a saint. As we walked through the Cathedral, the church’s chorus and orchestra were practicing several particularly dramatic songs, which made for incredible background as a spectacular guide discussed the details of Becket’s murder.

I also witnessed a touching ceremony at the Canterbury Cathedral. Every day, parishioners at Canterbury remember the loss of life in wars through the wars, most notably World War I, with the ringing of a bell from a naval ship, followed by a special prayer. It was particularly moving on this day, the day the news hit the papers that Britain lost eight men in Afghanistan yesterday, making their death toll in Afghanistan higher than their count in Iraq.

After lunch at a bustling French café in the heart of Canterbury, I strolled through a serene local park, where I came across another touching memorial. About thirteen months ago, I visited the Death Railway in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, which thousands of POWs from Allied nations built during World War II. Thousands of miles away, I, by happenstance, stood at a British memorial to those lost in Burma, one of the main countries “featuring” the Death Railway.

From that somber place in Canterbury, I headed to Dover, long Britain’s line of defense against invaders and the home of the famed – and beautiful – White Cliffs. The scenery was spectacular; the skies never opened up and a strong breeze kept the air cool. Humidity, to me, was non-existent. I took a look at Dover Castle, but couldn’t venture inside because of renovations. So, with some time to kill, I walked up to the Admiralty Lookout, where British naval personnel once scanned the English Channel for invaders. I looked toward France, which I could see through the mist and haze, and admired the gleaming white ships arriving at Dover while occasionally glancing at the White Cliffs. It was a memorable, private experience.

I also paid a visit to the Secret Wartime Tunnels, used by the British to provide immediate medical care for pilots shot down over the Channel. The tunnels were cold, but the stories remarkable. I was fascinated by the size, too; for the most part, I could walk without ducking my head.

We left Dover, had dinner at the British version of a truck stop (and much nicer than those I’ve visited in the United States), and we are now on our way back to Oxford.

And I just finished listening to a rap-off between Dr. Tricia McElroy, a UA English professor who is directing the trip, and Dr. Bob Halli, the former dean of the Honors College who is also a professor of English. Yes, UA students, you read that correctly. I think Victor Luckerson will be posting a video of the experience on his Facebook or on YouTube.

Just as I have posted pictures (though none as cool as Dr. Halli rapping) at this link: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2022834&id=1121340048&l=f7a460bc26

Tomorrow, I’m sleeping in for the last time for a while and relaxing in Oxford. I’m planning to wander over to the Christ Church Picture Gallery to find a topic for an essay for Rappin’ Bob Halli’s class. I’ll also be preparing for Monday’s much-anticipated interview with Lord Peter Carrington, long an icon of British, European, and, indeed, global politics, who served as defense secretary, foreign secretary, and secretary-general of NATO.

But, for now, it’s time for bed. A cathedral, a castle, the White Cliffs, and a rapping dean are enough for one day.

Living Chaucer's Tales

2009-07-10T20:45:00.001+01:00

CANTERBURY, England – As a senior in high school, I studied Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales in extraordinary depth. Now, a little more than a year later, I am in the story’s namesake.

We departed Oxford this morning after our routine classes, arriving at Leeds Castle after a drive of about two hours. Leeds is a beautiful site, indeed, with much of the beauty on the outside; the interior of the fortress was, at least in my mind, rather unremarkable.

There was also a maze at Leeds Castle, with the end a grotto. The formations were spectacular, and the colored lights made it all the more interesting. But most importantly, it was cool in the grotto. I’ll post the photos from Leeds tomorrow night when I get back to Oxford, as the internet is a bit sluggish and inconsistent here in the southeast corner of Britain.

From Leeds, we drove a half-hour to Canterbury, where we’re spending the night. We kick off tomorrow with a visit to Canterbury Cathedral before heading further to the southeast, where we’ll see the famed White Cliffs of Dover. If it’s a clear day, perhaps I’ll be able to see France across the English Channel.

For tonight, though, it’s just a quiet evening here at the hotel, which is hopefully the prologue for a relaxing weekend.

A Quiet Day at Worcester

2009-07-09T21:55:00.001+01:00

OXFORD, England – I had the day off from my interview series, so I did something new and untested lately: I relaxed.

After classes this morning, several of us ventured out to find lunch, and we ended up at the same pub where we watched Wimbledon less than a week ago. Following lunch, I sat down and did some academic work for a few hours, with some Facebook conveniently mixed in, too.

The Alabama group hosted a guest lecturer tonight, Princeton’s Meredith Martin, whose lecture was entitled “A Metrical History of England.” I don’t think I fully appreciated it.

Just like how I didn’t fully appreciate dinner, which was “Formal Hall,” an English tradition. The faculty wears their academic regalia, we eat fancy, nasty food (guinea fowl, anyone?), and try to endure a painfully-long event.

But now that’s over…until next Thursday. At this point, though, I’ve just finished packing for the trip to Canterbury and Dover. The trip is only for one night, so my bag is not what one could call heavy.

Off to bed shortly, and then to England’s southeast around lunch tomorrow.

Lost in Westminster…with Lord Hurd

2009-07-08T21:16:00.004+01:00

LONDON – Alan Johnson, the home secretary, which is the British equivalent of the attorney general, might think I’m stalking him. But more on that later.

I attended my usual classes this morning, had some traditional British fare (fish and chips) for lunch, and set off for another afternoon of interviews in London.

We took the train to Paddington Station and connected via the Underground (sometimes called “The Tube”) to the Westminster station, which sits below Portcullis House, the site of the first interview today. Portcullis House is the British version of the House and Senate office buildings near the Capitol in Washington, and it is where we met Sir Malcolm Rifkind, who served in two key roles: defense secretary and foreign secretary.

We took our seats in Rifkind’s cramped office, which is the reason why the photos are from a single angle, and began our half-hour discussion with Sir Malcolm. He was one of the bluntest politicians I have ever encountered and a delight to interview. We touched on a variety of topics, ranging from Africa to Iraq. A native of Scotland, he had a terrific accent. Admit it to yourself: That’s the coolest part.

After we left Sir Malcolm, one of his aides walked us over to the House of Lords. As we walked, we saw Alan Johnson for the first time. Johnson became home secretary last month as a part of Gordon Brown’s cabinet reshuffle in a desperate bid to keep the keys to 10 Downing Street. The press had speculated that Johnson would challenge Brown for the premiership, so the incumbent removed that obstacle by appointing Johnson to one of the most powerful posts in Britain. Many say that if Labour keeps power in the next election, Gordon Brown will probably be out (barring a miracle) and Alan Johnson will be in. As we kept walking, we also saw John Hutton, the recently-departed defense secretary. One never knows who they’ll see at Westminster; I’m holding out hope for Margaret Thatcher.

Lord Hurd arrived. And promptly got us lost. Westminster is a maze of a building, even to those who have worked there for decades, so we took a spontaneous tour of the rooms that few ever see.

Lord Hurd offered some remarkable insights during our lengthy but somewhat informal discussion. The room was stiflingly humid, and shortly after we entered, Lord Hurd removed his suit jacket. I did the same. God bless you, Doug Hurd.

After about an hour with Lord Hurd, he walked us to the Peers Entrance and we headed off for our return to Oxford after two solid interviews. We arrived at the Tube station and as we waited to board our train, I looked up to find Alan Johnson standing a few feet away for the second time in hours. When the arriving train opened its doors, he flashed a politician's smile at the crush of people descending onto the platform of Westminster. His appearance, however, was a ringing endorsement of the Tube. I'd say the Underground is a safe bet for many if the incumbent home secretary, a highly-recognizable face here in the United Kingdom, feels safe enough to ride with the general public.

We don’t have any more interviews on the calendar for this week; next week, though, we have three more before a final discussion the following week. A real treat is coming on Monday: Lord Peter Carrington, who served as defense secretary, foreign secretary, and secretary-general of NATO. Since I know you are dying to see photos from today, you can find them here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2022563&id=1121340048&l=e5efcfc0bc

I’ll be in Oxford all day tomorrow before heading off for Canterbury and Dover on Friday. The magic never seems to stop around here.

The First Interviews

2009-07-07T22:38:00.001+01:00

LONDON – I had a remarkable afternoon at the Palace of Westminster as I began the first round of interviews for my forthcoming article. After attending class in the morning, I set off for the British capital with Liz Hester, my photographer, and Hillary Moore, who is an editorial assistant for the project.

We made it to London’s Paddington Station and headed for Westminster, arriving a few minutes prior to our appointment with Lord Geoffrey Howe, a giant of Thatcher-era politics. Lord Howe was Lady Thatcher’s longest-serving cabinet minister and worked as the Chancellor of the Exchequer (the British equivalent of the secretary of the treasury), the foreign secretary, and the deputy prime minister.

Lord Howe’s assistant met us at the Peers Entrance, normally where the lords enter, but a special opportunity for the visiting Americans. She walked us up to a small meeting room and told us that Lord Howe would be with us shortly. A few minutes later, a stout man appeared in the doorway and said, “I think you’re looking for me.”

He made a point of greeting Hillary and Liz, took his seat, and we began. He brought some props, including copies of two speeches he delivered on the Anglo-American relationship…his idea of some bedtime reading, I suppose.

We had an engaging discussion of about half an hour, touching on a variety of topics. You’ll have to take a look at the article when it’s published for specifics, but Lord Howe had some harsh words for George W. Bush and Tony Blair while criticizing some of the recent economic bailout proposals.

After we finished with Lord Howe, we had one of the most memorable interviews of my life with Lord Tom King, the former defense secretary who also served as the chairman of the intelligence committee. He was quick-witted, engaging, and sharp. He offered some remarkable insights on Dick Cheney, driven in part by his association with him during the first Gulf War. Toward the end of our discussion, we turned the microphones off and he interrogated us about our worldview and what is happening on our side of the Atlantic. He also requested (and received) our opinions on assisted suicide; the House of Lords was debating the issue at that moment. We had an incredible dialogue for about an hour before he took us on a mini-tour of Westminster while he personally walked us out.

I was struck by a few things while at Westminster. First, security is noticeably lighter than at the United States Capitol. Second, the lords were unaccompanied by aides when sitting for the interview. Lord Howe’s assistant walked us to the room and disappeared shortly after. Lord King met us at the entrance and escorted us himself. In the United States, leading politicians do not sit for interviews alone. Ever.

Again, I’ve posted some photos of the day on a publicly-accessible Facebook link: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2022563&id=1121340048&l=e5efcfc0bc.

Tomorrow, we head back to Westminster for another two sessions. Malcolm Rifkind, the former defense and foreign secretary, is up first. Douglas Hurd, who served as the home and foreign secretary, will follow shortly after; both are almost certain to be lively exchanges.

Off to finish up some homework (I am, after all, still a student) and then it’s off to bed.

A Visit to the Library

2009-07-06T18:32:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England - My day began early as I never quite drifted back to sleep after waking up in the early morning hours thanks to the time change. Since I was wide awake, I went on a walk around Oxford at about 6:30am, which was fine considering it had been light for about an hour. It also gets dark here very late, normally around 10:30pm.

I wandered up toward Cornmarket Street, which is where American brands such as Starbucks, Burger King, and McDonald's hold forth. I bought a copy of the London Times on a newsstand and dropped in at Starbucks for some hot chocolate on a relatively windy British morning.

I arrived back at Worcester around 7:15am and actually enjoyed a British breakfast; I did, however, pass on the baked beans. Yes, you read that right.

Classes began at 8:30am and lasted until just after 11am. I participated in some interesting discussions on the expansion of the British empire to North America, as well as the setting of a Pullman novel, The White Mercedes.

After class, I had a quick lunch at a Chinese restaurant in Gloucester Green, one of the main gathering areas here in Oxford. And then fatigue hit, so, in a rare moment of genius, I took a two-hour nap.

When I woke up, I meandered over to Oxford's library and got myself a library card. I came back to Worcester with a few books that are relevant to my interviews, which begin tomorrow.

Speaking of those, tomorrow will be a busy day. At 3pm, I sit down with Lord Geoffrey Howe, who was the Chancellor of the Exchequer (the British equivalent of treasury secretary), foreign secretary, and deputy prime minister under Margaret Thatcher. At 4:45pm, Lord Tom King, the former defense secretary, takes his place on the hot seat.

Interesting story about my interview with Lord Howe. A short time ago, my UK cell phone rang, and it was Lord Howe's office. His assistant asked me if I'd mind moving up my time slot with Lord Howe as he is planning to attend a garden party with the Queen at Buckingham Palace. I deferred to the monarch...as if I had a choice.

So, tomorrow will be very busy and the rest of this evening will focus on preparing for the interviews, both of which are scheduled to take place at the Palace of Westminster in London. Check back tomorrow for some thoughts and maybe some photos, too.

A Row over...Facebook

2009-07-06T04:24:00.003+01:00

OXFORD, England – While the time change is certainly growing on me, I am wide awake at 4:05a.m. So, why not write a blog post for what I am sure is a legion of adoring fans across the pond?

The dominating story here in Britain is about, of all things, Facebook. Sir John Sawers, who has served in a number of high-profile roles in recent years and is currently the British ambassador to the United Nations, is set to become the chief of MI6 (“C”) in November. Remember MI6? Think James Bond.

At any rate, Sir John’s wife, Shelley, much like the rest of the world, has a Facebook account. The problem is that until one of the British newspapers tipped off the Foreign Office, which has jurisdiction over MI6, Lady Shelley’s profile was open to the world – she had failed to set her account’s privacy settings to restrict access.

Per the Daily Mail, the Facebook page had lots of interesting tidbits, ranging from the potentially dangerous (such as the location of their flat in London) to the just downright frightening (Sir John in a Speedo, prompting David Miliband, the current foreign secretary, to tell the BBC “It is not a state secret that he wears Speedo swimming trunks. For goodness sake, let’s grow up.”)

But Britain loves a spicy story of idiocy, and the fact that the incoming head of MI6 couldn’t keep the location of his own home a secret thanks to his wife is raising lots of questions as to whether he should head the Secret Intelligence Service.

Let’s remember that London did not officially acknowledge the existence of MI6 until the 1990s and Sir John is one of the first chiefs to ever have his appointment announced publicly. Not that the secrecy stopped the world from knowing of MI6’s existence, but it did put a limit on how much was known about the agency’s operatives. The world has certainly changed, thanks to Facebook and similar web sites and sources.

Conservatives and Liberal Democrats are screaming bloody murder over here, calling for an inquiry (the Brits like those a lot; even when I’m in Atlanta, I rarely hear about anything but calls for inquiries.) I doubt there will be one, particularly since Miliband was not keen on the idea and he has jurisdiction over MI6.

But you never know what will happen, considering I didn’t expect to see a picture of the Speedo-clad incoming chief of MI6 in my morning paper.

Taking in Oxford

2009-07-05T22:34:00.000+01:00

OXFORD, England – After having some difficulties adjusting to the time change and finding myself awake for about three hours in the middle of night, I spent my day further exploring Oxford.

I started out visiting a pub to take in Wimbledon while eating a late lunch. I don’t drink, so despite the lower drinking age in the U.K., I sat there and sipped my Pepsi (Coke was bottled and more expensive.) Eventually, I left to explore the city, virtually retracing my steps yesterday with a few twists and turns. I got lost for a while in Christ Church College, which is not a bad place to be lost in as it is an absolutely gorgeous set of buildings. I posted the photos of the trek online.

I came back to Worcester and relaxed for a while, preparing for classes, which start tomorrow, and the interviews, which begin on Tuesday. I had a nice series of video chats with Meredith (and her family, by default) and my parents, and I had a lot of fun chatting with everyone. It’s nice to see people from home despite being an ocean away.

After a meeting, some of us headed out to find food; we landed in an Indian restaurant, which despite being completely empty when we walked in, turned out to be quite good.

Now I’m back here at Worcester, about to finish the reading for tomorrow’s classes. Let the games begin.

Photos!

2009-07-05T16:11:00.002+01:00

OXFORD, England - I'll be writing more tonight, but I've posted the first batch of photos online. The link below is a public link that will allow you to access the photos via my Facebook, even if you don't have an account:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2022370&id=1121340048&l=8698d6a924

Independence Day

2009-07-04T21:22:00.001+01:00

OXFORD, England – The Brits aren’t big on the Fourth of July. I can’t begin to imagine why.

Although the British didn’t quite understand America back then, it turns out that they understand a lot about building beautiful cities. Exhibit A: Oxford.

After a walking tour of the College grounds en route to an excellent dinner, some of us joined Dr. Robert Halli, the dean emeritus of UA’s Honors College, for a tour of the city. During this tour, on a warm summer evening with blue skies dotted only by slight, wispy clouds, I discovered the beauty of this city.

I saw it in the majesty of the Bodleian Library and the Ashmolean Museum.

I heard it in the tolls of Great Tom, Oxford’s seven-ton bell.

I took in the sunlight as it hit the spires of Christ Church, one of the 38 colleges of the University of Oxford (Worchester is also one.)

This is a magical city. I’m not kidding: Hollywood’s version of the Great Hall of Hogwarts is at the aforementioned Christ Church College.

Tomorrow, I’ll probably wander the city and continue to take it all in. This time, I’ll bring a camera.

Happy Independence Day.

Live from the College of Worcester…

2009-07-04T20:24:00.000+01:00

OXFORD, England – As my plane descended into London a few hours ago, touching down at Heathrow Airport at 11:58 A.M., local time, I looked out the window at the British capital. Mere moments after I turned my eyes to the ground, I spotted the Thames River, running through the city, with the Palace of Westminster along its banks.

Welcome to the United Kingdom.

After clearing customs, I picked up my bags and made the trek to Oxford. I’ll be seeing more of the College shortly, but I can say that my room is better than expected. It is similar to a stateroom one would find a cruise ship, and my mom would be ecstatic at the amount of closet space.

Off to a meeting and then dinner in one of the College’s halls. More later tonight from Oxford.

God's Ice Cream

2009-07-04T20:23:00.000+01:00

ABOARD DELTA AIR LINES FLIGHT 10, ABOVE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN – God wrote a recipe for vanilla ice cream, and he sold it to Delta Air Lines. I’m sure of it. But more on that later.

Meredith took me to the airport this afternoon, and after a snack of fries and a Coke at the Wendy’s in the Atlanta airport’s atrium, we said our goodbyes and I was off. I breezed through security and relaxed for a while in a Delta lounge, passing the time by reading Philip Pullman’s spectacular novel, The White Mercedes, which is a requirement for my literature course.

I had the unique experience of sitting in Delta’s BusinessElite section for the flight. Quite a seat, indeed. For the first time in memory, I had enough room to completely stretch out, quite a feat for someone with my size legs. This flight, we could say, was a flight of many firsts.

And then came the food, the single most important aspect of any flight for an undergraduate student. I’m used to receiving mere peanuts on flights, and Delta could not pass up the opportunity to remind us that, despite the leather seats, we were still flying aboard an American-owned airline. To that end, the flight attendants came around with porcelain dishes of warmed nuts, quite an upgrade from the routine baggie.

For the first time in a long time, I received a printed menu for an airline dinner. Soon after, the flight attendants presented a spinach salad, a wonderfully-spicy bowl of Thai chicken and coconut soup, and a plate of Hummus, which I completely ignored (Sorry, Erin.)

My main course was “grilled beef tenderloin and shrimp scampi.” I was impressed by both, but I was more intrigued by the accompanying lemon risotto, which had a strong, punchy flavor.

After dinner, Delta provided a selection of cheeses, grapes, and strawberries. I rarely turn down plates of cheese and strawberries.

But the best was yet to come.

As a former summer scholar at Emory’s Candler School of Theology, I’ve been doing some mental searching for scripture references related to God creating ice cream. I’ve come up empty, but I’ve discovered the fruits of His labors: a wonderfully creamy vanilla ice cream that Delta perfected with hot fudge. As a frequent connoisseur of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce (ask Meredith,) I was prepared to be underwhelmed. One bite proved otherwise, and I determined that God has opened up an ice cream shop at around 33,000 feet off the coast of Delaware.

At this point, I’m about to catch a few hours of sleep, having finished my book. When I wake up, I’ll have breakfast (the menu says I can look forward to an English muffin topped with cheddar cheese and scrambled eggs, accompanied by Canadian bacon), and then we’ll be landing at London’s Heathrow airport.

More tonight from Oxford’s Worcester College.

To London and Beyond...

2009-07-01T01:02:00.000+01:00

ATLANTA – On Friday, I am scheduled to begin a journey that will be unusual for me in that I am going to some traditional destinations. In 2008, I showcased my penchant for the unusual, stopping in places like South Africa, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, and Namibia. This time, I’m off to Europe and the more tame environs of the Czech Republic, Germany, and the United Kingdom.

There is much to examine across the Atlantic, and I’ll be taking a long look before returning to the United States on August 1.

In the United Kingdom, Gordon Brown, the prime minister, remains in power despite an uprising within his governing Labour Party. David Cameron, the opposition leader, is demanding that Brown call an election. The prime minister is resisting such calls, which is hardly surprising considering opinion polls show Labour having a lower approval rating than George W. Bush when he left office.

Speaking of the United States, I will be spending a lot of talk talking about American foreign policy during my visit to Britain. Over the last few months, I have been developing a special series, “London’s Eye: Candid Conversations with Britain’s Leaders.” Look for it on newsstands this fall, but I’ll be posting some anecdotes from our sessions in this space throughout the trip. Among the interviews you’ll see here over the next few weeks:

- Peter Carrington: Defense Secretary (1970 – 1974), Foreign Secretary (1979 – 1982), and Secretary-General of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (1984 – 1988)

- Michael Howard: Home Secretary (1993 – 1997), Shadow Foreign Secretary (1997 – 1999), Shadow Chancellor of the Exchequer (2001 – 2003), and Leader of the Opposition (2003 – 2005)

- Geoffrey Howe: Chancellor of the Exchequer (1979 – 1983), Foreign Secretary (1983 – 1989), and Deputy Prime Minister (1989 – 1990)

- Douglas Hurd: Northern Ireland Secretary (1984 – 1985), Home Secretary (1985 – 1989) and Foreign Secretary (1989 – 1995)

- Tom King: Northern Ireland Secretary (1985 – 1989) and Defense Secretary (1989 – 1992)

- Nigel Lawson: Chancellor of the Exchequer (1983 – 1989)

- David Owen: Foreign Secretary (1977 – 1979)

- Malcolm Rifkind: Defense Secretary (1992 – 1995) and Foreign Secretary (1995 – 1997)

Bottom line: Each person listed above has a wealth of experience and I am looking forward to hearing their thoughts on some of the most critical issues facing the world today. We’ll be talking about a number of issues ranging from Iraq to America’s role in the world to the differences in governance from one generation to the next. If you’d like to suggest a question, feel free to send me an e-mail.

While I won’t be posting a lot of the interview content on this blog (I have to save something for the print edition), I will be posting selected quotes from each interview, along with some thoughts that won’t come out in a news article. Alabama’s Liz Hester will be along for the ride as the project’s photographer in Britain, and with any luck, we’ll be able to post some of her images, too.

Believe it or not, I am not traveling to London solely for the purpose of this interview series. I’ll also be studying history and literature at the University of Oxford’s Worcester College, so chances are good that I’ll be posting some thoughts on those courses on here. Here I come, Philip Pullman and T.S. Eliot.

For my academic work, I’ll be visiting Stratford-upon-Avon, the birthplace of Shakespeare, Canterbury, and Dover, so I’ll be seeing some parts of Britain that I’ve never visited.

I have not been to the U.K. in some time, so I am looking forward to everything but the cuisine. I once visited LegoLand, something you should look up if you get bored, but I somehow doubt that will make it onto my schedule this time. I do have plans, however, to visit London’s celebrated wax museum, Madame Tussauds, somewhere I’ve never ventured. If you’ve been to London and have a suggestion, I’m always up for ideas (especially restaurants.)

I’ll also be writing some about my visits to Berlin (July 17 – 19) and Prague (July 24 – 26) over the coming weeks. In Berlin, I will be visiting a concentration camp, Sachsenhausen, just north of the German capital, while my visit to Prague will be my first behind the former Iron Curtain.

I leave Atlanta late Friday night, landing in London on Saturday, which is coincidentally July 4. I am going to go out on a limb and predict that it’s not a day of block parties and fireworks in Britain.

This should be an interesting visit, with lots of twists, turns, and surprises. I hope you’ll join me.